Darwin’s Galapagos with Jo Ruxton MBE: Ecuador

2024 - 10 days

To register drop us a line at tours@newscientist.com and we will contact you later this year with full details

Tour the Central and Southern Galapagos Islands by boat as Charles Darwin did, but aboard a small luxury yacht. The tour will be accompanied by marine conservationist Jo Ruxton MBE and an onboard naturalist guide who will help you really understand the abundant species, geology and conservation activity of these Pacific islands.

Galapagos sea lions, marine iguanas lounging on the shores, blue-footed boobies patrolling the skies, giant tortoises, Sally Lightfoot crabs and green sea turtles are just a few of the animals native to this fascinating archipelago.

We have curated a distinctive trip to this paradise for natural history and geology lovers, which includes the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site of Quito followed by seven days of exploring at sea. The spacious and stylish yacht, the Grand Queen Beatriz, is small enough to get into bays that larger expedition ships cannot go near, so you get to truly immerse yourself in the stunning islands. With the yacht taking just 14 guests, this is the smallest group size available to explore this region. You can choose to be active with daily short hikes and snorkeling opportunities, or relax aboard the well-appointed yacht.

For every guest, we will make a £300 contribution to the Ocean Generation charity who exists to restore a healthy relationship between humanity and the Ocean through science and storytelling.

In partnership with Intrepid Travel.

DAY 1: ARRIVE QUITO

On arrival in Quito, you will be met and transferred to the five-star Le Parc Hotel. The rest of the day is free for you to relax or explore this city at your own pace.

With Pichincha Volcano on one side and Machangara Gorge on the other, plus the equator passing directly through, few cities can rival Quito's setting. Few also can match the splendour of its old town, with its colonial churches, mansions and plazas. Quito was named a World Cultural Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1978. This historical city sits at an altitude of 2850 metres and has the largest and best-preserved historic centre and colonial quarters in Latin America.

In the evening you will meet marine biologist and film producer Jo Ruxton as well as your local guide who will take you over the itinerary for the next few days. 

DAY 2: SANTA CRUZ ISLAND AND HIGHLANDS

This morning you will be transferred to the airport for an early flight to the Galapagos Islands that will take about three-and-a-half hours. 

On arrival in the Galapagos, you will be met and transferred by ferry across the Itabaca Channel. Once you reach Santa Cruz Island, you will drive to Puerto Ayora, the main port of the island. Here, there will be two dinghies to transport you and your fellow travellers to the boat, the Grand Queen Beatriz. Once on board, cabins will be assigned and you get to meet the crew members and get to know your onboard naturalist guide while enjoying a delicious lunch.

The naturalist guide will lead the daily excursions and give evening briefings. Jo Ruxton will give lectures on board during the voyage on her marine conservation work with Ocean Generation, World Wildlife Fund and the BBC Natural History Unit, as well as accompanying the daily excursions and helping guests develop their photography skills.

In the afternoon, you will take a visit to the Santa Cruz Highlands before setting sail. Here you can observe its impressive flora and fauna including many bird species. No activity is mandatory, so you can choose exactly how active or relaxed you want to be.

DAY 3: NORTH SEYMOUR, ISLA MOSQUERA AND BALTRA

Today, take a morning excursion along the hiking trail on North Seymour, crossing inland through the island and then exploring the rocky coast. Along the way, the trail passes colonies of blue-footed boobies and frigate birds.

The magnificent frigate bird, a large black bird with a long wingspan and a hooked beak, is extremely fast and has excellent vision. Frigate birds are known for the large red pouch on their necks. During mating season, the males throw back their heads, inflate the pouch (sometimes to the size of a soccer ball), and shake trying to capture the attention of female frigates. Boobies and frigates have an interesting relationship. Sharing the same nesting area on North Seymour, blue-footed boobies nest on the ground making their nests from the twigs of the palo santos trees, while the frigate birds nests just above them in the saltbushes.

Your walk is followed by a spot of snorkelling, where you can find a colourful variety of fish and, possibly, some white-tipped reef sharks, rays and sea lions.

After lunch, visit the small sandy Isla Mosquera: a picturesque island located between Baltra and North Seymour. Along the rocks and in the tide pool, Sally Lightfoot crabs (red lava crabs) scamper back and forth, skipping across small pools of water in search of food. These crabs with their bright red shell tops and blue under shells are stunning against the black lava. The island also has a very large colony of sea lions, as well as a sizeable resident brown pelican population. Depending on the tides and visibility, you may have a chance to go snorkelling in its surrounding turquoise waters.

DAY 4: CALETA TORTUGA NEGRA AND CERRO DRAGON

Take a Zodiac boat to Caleta Tortuga Negra (Black Turtle Cove) – a red mangrove wetland on the north shore of Isla Santa Cruz. You will paddle among the cove’s peaceful waters for your first taste of the underwater riches of this region. It’s a wonderful place to see green turtles and is a nursery for golden cow-nose rays, eagle rays and Galapagos sharks. There is also abundant birdlife, such as the yellow warbler and lava heron. This is also a breeding area for turtles, so it is not uncommon to see them mating.

In the afternoon, cruise over for a walk on Cerro Dragón (Dragon Hill): one of the best places to see land iguanas on the islands. From Your dry landing, walk to a brackish lagoon, spotting lagoon birds such as stilts, pintail ducks, sandpipers, sanderlings and flamingos. Further inland, the trail offers a beautiful view of the bay and the western area of the archipelago. 

This area is a nesting site for land iguanas, which is constantly monitored and assisted by the Charles Darwin Research Station. The arid-zone vegetation makes for an ideal place to see Darwin's finches, Galapagos mockingbirds, the endemic Galapagos flycatcher and yellow warblers. The path can be challenging but it will be worth it for a spectacular view of the bay.

DAY 5: SANTIAGO AND ISLA RABIDA

Head towards Sombrero Chino: a small islet located near the southeast coast of Santiago. The island is shaped like a Chinese hat (Sombrero Chino) when seen from afar, and is geologically fascinating, with many lava tubes leading from the cone to the coast. You’ll approach Sombrero Chino via a beautiful crescent-shaped, sandy beach that is home to sea lions and Sally Lightfoot crabs. Opposite Sombrero Chino, on the rocky shoreline of nearby Santiago, you might see some Galapagos penguins. Follow a trail that circles the cove and passes through colonies of sea lions and marine iguanas. The cove also offers some great snorkelling opportunities, hopefully with penguins and sharks.

Next stop is the striking Isla Rabida – a tiny island sitting roughly 5 kilometres south of Santiago. Introduced species were eradicated in 1971, meaning that the native wildlife has now been returned to a state of isolation. Additionally, volcanic activity here has produced vivid colours, not least the red sand beaches and scarlet cliffs.

From the shore, the trail leads through to what is one of the finest lagoons in the Galapagos for flamingo spotting. Rabida is also a wonderful place to spot nesting pelicans, pintail ducks, marine iguanas and sea lions. There is an opportunity for snorkelling in a cove full of sea stars, damsels, gobies and surgeon fish.

DAY 6: LAS BACHAS AND PUNTA CARRION

Today, take an early morning excursion to Las Bachas, which was so named after the barges abandoned by the American Navy here in the 1940s. The sandy beaches of Las Bachas on the north shore of Santa Cruz are a nesting site for the Pacific green turtle, and home to marine iguanas. The sand here is particularly white and soft as it is made of decomposed coral. The rocks provide great snorkelling and are the perfect habitat for the Sally Lightfoot crabs, which are plentiful on the island. A saltwater lagoon near the beach that is home to flamingos, whimbrels and great blue herons.

In the afternoon, visit Punta Carrion, located in north-eastern Santa Cruz. This is a shallow and protected cove, ideal for snorkelling. Wildlife is plentiful, so look around for blue-footed boobies, Galapagos herons and great blue herons, and underwater, swim among rays and white-tipped reef sharks.

DAY 7: ISLA ISABELA, LAS TINTORERAS AND THE GIANT TORTOISE BREEDING CENTRE

Wake up on the south Coast of Isla Isabela, the largest island of the Galapagos archipelago. Isabela was formed by five giant volcanic craters, all of which are still considered active. The island is located in one of the youngest geological areas in the world, having been formed less than 1 million years ago.

This southern coast of Isabela’s turquoise blue waters has the largest area of beaches in the Galapagos. You will visit Las Tintoreras, where from the viewing walkway you can look down into this narrow channel to see a colony of white-tipped reef sharks swimming and sleeping, and the occasional playful sea lion among them. Blue-footed boobies and penguins, marine iguanas and crabs also make their home here.

Enjoy a long walk on a gravel path through aa (‘ah-ah’) lava flow and see plenty of marine iguanas. Locally, the white sharks are known as 'tintoreras', hence the name of this spectacular site.

In the afternoon, take a leisurely walk through a coastal lagoon, where you might see some flamingos. This mangrove-lined path leads to Isabela’s Giant Tortoise Breeding Center (Arnoldo Tupiza) where you'll observe giant tortoises in all stages of development. Here you can see the five sub-species of tortoises from Isabela, some of which are bred in captivity.

You will then have the choice of optional swimming at the beach or heading out for some shopping in Puerto Villamil.

DAY 8: ISAL FLOREANA, POST OFFICE BAY, THE DEVIL’S CROWN LAGOON AND PUNTA COMORANT

Isla Floreana is a highlight of any Galapagos cruise, rich in natural wonders and wildlife. Enjoy a Zodiac ride around the bay to see marine iguanas, sea lions and crabs before taking a leisurely walk to Post Office Bay, where 18th-century whalers used a barrel as an unofficial mail drop. You will also have the chance to go snorkelling with sea turtles.

Today is also one of your finest opportunities to see pink flamingos and other water birds wading in the lagoons, including pintails and stilts. Just offshore, the Devil’s Crown is an old eroded volcanic cone and a popular roosting site for seabirds such as boobies, pelicans and frigates. Red-billed tropicbirds can also be seen nesting in the rocky crevices. The centre of the cone is an outstanding snorkelling spot, perhaps the most remarkable in the entire archipelago, full of sea lions and colourful fish.

You will also go ashore at Punta Cormorant, where the sand is made up of fine olivine crystals (a glassy volcanic mineral), giving the beach an olive-green colour. It is a great place to see the Galapagos sea lions.

DAY 9: RETURN TO QUITO VIA THE CHARLES DARWIN RESEARCH STATION

After disembarking from your ship, you will visit the Charles Darwin Research Station. As well as undertaking vital conservation work, the station also makes for interesting exploration and offers an opportunity to see giant tortoises, baby tortoises and land iguanas.

Then onto the airport, for your return flight to the beautiful capital Quito. After checking back into Le Parc Hotel, you have the evening at leisure to explore this famous city. 

DAY 10: DEPART ECUADOR

After breakfast, there are no activities planned and the airport is just one hour away.

You may wish to spend a few extra days before or after your trip to experience all the city has to offer. You may even wish to explore further beyond the city and visit Otavalo, Cotopaxi, the Cloud Forest or the Equatorial Monument. Please ask when booking and we can help you with this.